My Manali-Leh-Khardungla bike solo expedition
I was planning for the trip manali to leh . I practiced daily ,in the morning 20 min running ,exercise ,playing football in the evening. I t was my first time of cycle trip in
Himalayas ,so i thought it would be better to have a partner .I asked many people but most of them refused,But my friend Kartik told me he will be free in June but he doesn't confirmed the date .
This was June So we have one month for preparation.
After one month we decided to start the trip on 7 June .On 5/6/16 I left Jaipur by bus to Delhi and cycle on the roof of bus.
Reached Delhi( Kashmiri gate)
Next morning 5:00 AM I reached Delhi
Kashmiri gate .Kartik told me He will be there till 11:00 AM So I was waiting for him & chatting with aakash (lives in delhi only).After an hour I came to know that He is not coming for the trip due to some Family Emergency.
Now I was left alone for the trip ,my whole 1 year planning for the biggest trip of my life is about to cancel.Now I have two choices
1) Go back home & wait again for one whole year OR
2)Show some bravery & Lead this trip of one of the most dangerous highway ALONE without tent ,torch etc.
As I and kartik distributed some things he was having
tent,torch I had Puncture kit,power bank etc.
After thinking for 1\2 hour ,I decided to go for it.Now the next problem is to tell my parents that
I am going alone(Specially mom).So Aakash called my mom & talked to her ,any how she agreed but still afraid.
at 4:00 PM ,I left Delhi and Reached Manali at 4:00 AM on 7\6\16
REACHED MANALI
It was very cold at that time .I ate breakfast & for Waiting 6'O clock to start my journey but some locals told me that
to pass rohtang i have to take permit from tourism office which will open at 10:00 AM.At 10:00 AM when I reached office they told me that for cyclist
no permit is required,but on Tuesday rohtang road will be closed.Now I have to wait for tomorrow.
As it was the peak time of tourist all the hotels were full,even the dharamshala.
So my friend (Nikhil) suggested me to stay in Gurudwara .I searched for it ,instead of gurudwara i found a temple ,the pujari agreed when i told him
my story (just asked for ID).
Next morning (Wednesday) 8/6/16 I Wake up early in the morning at 5:30 ,have bath ,breakfast ,2 eggs in my pocket for emergency &
THE JOURNEY BEGINS
#DAY0(Manali to Sissu,87 KM Ride)
I left manali at 6:00 AM ,it was very cold in the morning.The left paddle of my cycle was not fixed properly ,one of its bolt was loose but I managed and kept cycling.In the morning it's difficult but later when sunlight came it became quite warm.Traffic was too much & highway till marahi was jammed .Many people on the way asked about the trip but didn't believe that i will reach leh in 6 days& then wish me luck.Sometime it became quite irritating when we move in loops on a hill & also when we see top of the hill from bottom & when we reach on top ,we came to know that behind that hill there is another one to go. At 12:00 PM I raeched Marhi where people where gathered ,paragliding & many dhabhas were there.
I have a Packed paratha which I ate here & after 15 min I left marhi . From marhi it became more difficult ,as the road is now under construction & also the height was increasing .At higher altitude while biking you have to move & kept your mouth wide open.
REACHED ROHTANG (13500ft)
meaning of rohtang is pile of dead bodies.At 3:00A PM I reached rohtang ,it's quite cold ,due to blowing wind on pass & also sunlight can't reach due to clouds..I took 15 min
have some chat & snap & left rohtang. After that in downhill the road was in very bad condition ,but it was nuteriased by downhill because in downhill you
just have to
wait & watch your destination .
At 6:00PM I reached Sissu.
Sissu was also very expensive for me.Rs 1500 to 2500 for stay. I knew this situation will come,& I was not having any tent,so
I already buyed a tent from Manali. Now near a river in between tall trees I made a temporary tent from tripal.
.I cleared the place ,tied the tripal to the tree & covered it's border to with mud so that if it rains in night ,the water doesn't come through.I locked my bike
to a tree & went to a market outside for dinner.There I have dinner & remaining food was packed for next day .I was afraid a little bit,sleeping in Jungle alone ,par kehte hai na
kuch pane ke liye kuch khone padta hai.
#DAY1 (Sissu to Darcha , 63 KM Ride)
Next day 9/6/16 I wake up at 5:00 AM in the morning & arranged my luggage & left Sissu at 6:00 AM. There I pass by Tandi,Keylong &Jispa. There i also pass By
above Petrol pump.It says that we won't get petrol but iI found garage where we can repair bike
& motor bike & also get some fuel.At 4:00 AM I have breakfast of dhai paratha at tandi. At 12:00 PM I reached Keylong .Keylong is the only place in manali-Leh
highway where you will get mobile network ATM's, Bank, Market of basic needs& also Bus stand.
Here some locals told me that I can have BSNL Sim of manali from BSNL office of keylong,which will work in whole kashmir & HP.Now I withdrawal Money from ATM,Have urgent passport Photo from
studio & went to BSNL Office With my ID. But they told me that to buy a sim you must have a local reference.
One whole hour was wasted in this process ,SO now I left Keylong at 1:00 PM without sim.Now at 2:00 PM I reached Darcha
.At Darcha there is a police check-post where ,Police asks for ID & then let you go.Here I stayed in tent in bed system ,where locals charge Rs 100 per bed & food apart.Here many people halt for rest,a haryanvi truck driver
came from baralacha pass at 6:00 PM & told me that there is too much snow at the pass,trucks are slipping on the road towards downhill,He told me to be careful while biking,as I have to go there there next day.
I, have dinner & slept at 10:00 PM.
#DAY2 (Darcha to Baratpur, 52 KM Ride)
Next Day 10/6/16, I left Darcha at 6:00 AM,after biking 1 hr the road was completely damaged completely
due to a heavy waterfall & it made deep hole in the road under water.To cross it I took help from some tourist
.I hold my cycle in hands & sat down on window seat with door wide open.
After that I reached Deepak Taal
It's a nice place for photography ,Here I have breakfast of aalu Paratha ,tea & pickle ,after 1/2 hour I moved towards baralacha
from here ,uphill starts towards Baralacha.
Here I pass by patseo ,zing-zing bar .
REACHED BARALACHA (16040ft)
At 1:00 PM I reached Baralacha,Where I saw amazing Suraj tal
It was very cold there & after 1 hr downhill I reached Baratpur. Here also I stayed in bed system @150 & Food apart
Here I met Amit ,who was biking from Srinagar-Leh-Manali & also Depi Choudhary Biking From Manali to Leh.
In dinner I have Rajma chawal & slept at 10:00 PM.
In midnight I felt very cold & also feeling that the bed is wet,As that place was only 10 KM below the Baralacha pass.
In morning I saw a LAYER OF ICE on bed.Also due to lack of O2 ,I slept whole night with mouth wide open.
#DAY3 (Baratpur to Pang,98 KM Ride )
Next day,on 11/6/16 I left baratpur at 6:00 AM .At the backside of tent there was a river which was freezed in night,I saw it in the early morning.
The road from baralacha till downhill ends, is in very bad condition but after that plains start. Here the condition of road is good
& also many camps are fixed & a wide area for camping site. Here i also pass by an army camp. This highway goes through that army campsite.
I reached Sarchu at 8:00 AM. At sarchu there was one tent, where I have same aalo paratha,achar & chai.Here I also met a group of riders who were riding from Manali to Leh on Bullets.
At sarchu there was a Police Check post Which Checked my ID & Noted my details.
Sarchu is the only last place to have water before pang & distance between pang & sarchu is 75KM.Here I had seen Pinnacle made of sand on mountains
After 1/2 hr I left sarchu.
After few kilometers, I met Dilip bharat Malik. He is a guy having golden long hairs & was 60 years old. He is an govt. employee& was cycling from Leh to kanayakumari, Which is 2897 KM.
He was creating a record for Limca book, having a flag on his cycle.
Now the 21 Gata loops start.21 loops to go up on mountain.
It was becoming very difficult, as the sun was very bright & creating a very hot climate. All the way to nakeela I could only see moraines, rocks & no sign of water. Just before 2 KM from Nakeela
I met with some tourist going from manali to nubra via Leh. This family is from Jaipur. A lady was driving the car. They offer me some meal, But I said, "I am fine". At 1:56 PM I
After 1/2 hr I left sarchu.
REACHED NAKEELA (15547ft)
Here I saw people has made home by stones , same as in jaipur we all make in Amer.
After 5 min I left Nakeela to downhill for 5 KM to Wisky nalla.
At 3:00 PM when I reached wisky nalla, the owner of a tent shop said "JULE",I asked what's "JULE", then he replied "JULE"
is a word in Laddakhi means NAMASTE.
From him I had tea & energy drink .The owner was then, saying me to stay there & leave next day for pang Via Lachungla, but I thought it's not late enough, So I left Wisky nalla after 15 min
& going way up to lachungla. After 6 KM uphill I
REACHED LACHUNGLA (16616ft)
at 4:11 PM. Here a small shivji temple is also present.
Now after 15 min I moved downhill as it is getting dark. The road from Lachungla to pang is very bad but the view is awesome as the road pass from deep narrow valley.
At 6:00 PM I reached Pang, where some Buddhist monks were busy in their prayer. Here also ,I saw an army camp, where tourist can make call from 6:00 PM to 8:00 PM. due to no network "I HAVE'NT CALLED AT HOME SCINCE 4 DAYS", So I Called at my home & told that I am at pang.
This phone is a satellite phone so they charge @ Rs 6\min and also ask for ID.
The good thing about Pang is that they provide a separate bed system in tent in Rs 200. Here I had Rajma rice & slept at 10:00 PM.
Now, I started feeling a little tiered as ,I climbed 50KM uphill to a height of about 16000+ ft.
#Day4 Pang to Upshi (120KM Ride)
I left Pang Early in the morning 6:30 AM.
After going uphill for a few kilometers the plains came. The Road there was very well & view was awsome. There I saw the bus of HRTC going from Leh to Delhi.
It starts from Leh at 5:00 AM & reaches Keylong at 6:00 PM in evening, where the bus & passengers have some rest.
Then this same bus starts next morning at 5:00 AM from keylong, pass by Manali, Chandigarh & reaches Delhi Next day at 5:00 AM in morning.
In total IT TAKES 25 HRS TO COVER 1250 KM.
IT IS THE LONGEST SINGLE ROUTE BUS IN INDIA.
At 10:00 AM ,I reached the starting point of uphill towards Tanglangla. Two tent shops were there , So I had breakfast & met a couple from Israel. Both were speaking Israel and English. I had chat with them & some snaps. My pump was not working ,So I refilled air to
my bike with their pump & left after 1/2 hr.
Clouds are all over and it's becoming cold, Now the road is very bad as the water is coming from mountains, Suddenly snowfall started, It was a great feeling of "CYCLING FIRST TIME IN SNOWFALL".
After uphill of 4 hrs I
REACHED TANGLANGLA "SECOND HIGHEST PASS OF THE WORLD"(17585 ft)
Here I had tea, met people from Newzeland, U.S.A who took
this snap. Here I also took the laddakhi flag. Here also I saw a temple. After 15 mins I left tanglangla, But the road from here is like Janpath, we had in front of Rastrpati Bhawan. I was Just, relaxing & my bike was moving down the way, without any effort.
This awesome road continues till Leh.
I had a thought that, I will reach leh at 8:00 PM, But when I reached Upshi at 5:00 PM, two guys who were taking toll-tax asked about my journey & background, it all took about 1/2 hr.
Now its getting dark & I didn’t have also. So I decided to stay at Upshi. Those 2 guys were from Jammu & very kind hearted.
Watching me Biking alone, they offered me to stay with them at night & also offered me food without any money. Who do all this without any profit, But they did
& also at Baratpur where I stayed, the tent owner refused to had money of food & stay, when I told him about my trip, But when I forced him ,then he took the money.
Having an experience like this, I can say ,there are still kind hearted people in the world,
who helps other without any mean or profit. Thank you two guys for helping me in my Journey.
who helps other without any mean or profit. Thank you two guys for helping me in my Journey.
#DAY5 Pang to Leh (50 KM RIDE)
I took their contacts & left Upshi at 8:00 AM, as now I have to bike 50 KM only for leh. At upshi there are many basic need shops, Atm & guest house are available.
Today Sun is very bright, so I got sunburn. when I reach Leh I saw a fair is going on & after 6 days I saw a huge amount of crowed. In fair I had NEETA ICE-CREAM. Finally after 6 Days I had some sweet to eat.
But for that 2 Rupee ICE-CREAM the seller asked 10 Rs.
I already know that there are 2 most popular tourist places in Kashmir, Leh & Srinagar & anyone wants to stay here he have to had enough cash as most of places don't
have ATM & some of them even out of service. As I was not having enough cash so I Called Nikhil bro. As by now my mobile started working in leh. I thought that he helped me in manali, so he could help
me in Leh also. He gave me the cell no. of Rigzen bro ,with whom I had skiing course from JIM & WS in January 2016.
He is from Leh. Rigzen bro took me to his uncle's guest house, where his uncle & his family live.
Here I had bath & Lunch. After leaving from Jaipur this was the day when I removed my inner & took a bath.
Then I slept for 3 hrs. They also didn’t asked anything for accommodation & service for all those days. It was a great time.
THANK YOU RIGZEN BRO,NIKHIL BRO & FAMILY
In the evening, I prepared for going to the "WORLD HIGHEST MOTERABLE ROAD" Khardungla
#DAY6 Leh-Khardungla-Leh (80 KM RIDE)
Next day I woke up early in the morning at 6:00 AM & with empty stomach ,I started biking ,as I didn’t want to waste my time & more excited for Khardungla. Here at the starting
I met a group who were also biking towards K-top (Khardungla).I started with them But they were a bit elder then me so they were taking more time. I biked faster. After
one hour when I saw back, there was no one, they left behind, Never mind.
Traffic was too much on that day & the sky was clear so there was a rush towards K-TOP Nubra & Pangong Lake.
You can see the lines on the mountain in the pic, these are the road you have to travel & behind this there are another mountains to reach K-TOP.
After few kilometer I was having rest, then a XUV came near & stopped, A lady came out & said, You are from jaipur? I said "how do u know"? She replied "you are wearing CCHS track & I am also from Jaipur". She also told that she is the sister/relative of
Mrs. Lata rawat Director of CCHS. Her husband was talking in same tone as Mr rawat Speaks.
Now my pain starts in my stomach as I haven’t ate anything since morning & I had only water with me.
At 10:30 AM, I reached South pullu
Here, finally I had lunch & brought a cap from a tent shop.
Here track suite, T-shirts & warm Cloths are also available which says
"HIGHEST MOTORBALE ROAD KHARDUNGLA, I WAS THERE".
The road till South pullu was good but after that the road condition becomes very bad, due to construction of road, workers, lot of traffic & huge rocks on road. I can't ride at all.
South pullu to khardungla is 14 KM, But I ride 4 KM approx, rest 10 KM I walked till KHARDUNGLA. Just before khardungla I saw these saying on Stone
Which says
"YOU ARE DRIVING UP TO THE HIGHEST MOTRABLE ROAD IN THE WORLD, NOT A SHORTCUT TO HEAVEN"
Some tourist told me that a local driver had fallen asleep at K-TOP, So don't stay for long there.
Finally at 2:35 PM, I
REACHED KHARDUNGLA "HIGHEST MOTRABLE ROAD IN THE WORLD" 18380 FT
I was feeling............,What I was feeling, I don't have words for that, it was amazing.
I would say, once in life everybody should have to have a MANALI-LEH trip to experience different shades of nature. No matter by cycle, bike or four wheeler.
There I had some snaps, I also saw a temple there & an army canteen where they were providing Tea ,coffee, Kava(kashmiri chai), busciuts etc. I had tea & when I came out of canteen,
I met them again, the one whom I met just before nakeela, the lady driver with her family from Jaipur. They were coming from Nubra, Congratulate me.
Then one of the tourist gave me kapoor & told to inhale it as it increases o2 level in body. After 20 min I left & on my way to LEH.
At K-TOP the road just moved around a hill, So u can't see what is on the other side of road. So just about 50 meter backside of K-TOP ,two bikers were looking very tiered, taking deep breath, asked me "how far is K-TOP, we are waiting for about 1/2 hr".
I told, "OH! MAN, you are standing just behind it, you are only 50 mtr away"
This happens when you reach at a high altitude called AMS(acute mountain sickness).Then I told them that whenever u see a bunch of laddakhi flags ,it means u r at the top .
After 10 KM downhill, I met the group who were biking to K-top with me in the morning & were left behind. I cheered them up & moved forward.
Then after 1/2 hr I again met he lady driver, they were also going to Leh. Now they stopped their car. All of them came out, gave me chocolate & told "Ab to aapko photo kichwane he padege". I replied "Sure, why not". They had some snaps with me.
Her husband took my cycle & said "wait here, let me have a ride".
He took my bike & rode 100 mtr downhill, But when he was returning to uphill he was like, "shit man! Too difficult to drive, am good in car only".
I between i saw a couple(Lady 70 KM & and husband 85 KM)cycling towards K-TOP,I was like 'maine to phir kuch be nahi kiya,agar ye 85 ke age me K-TOP jaa rahe hai, to meri age me to kya he kiya hoga'.
GREAT!! SALUTE YOU #RESPECT
Now at 6:00 PM, I Reached Leh. About 200 mtr from road circle, I was moving towards the circle, I saw a foreigner girl was shaking her hand and greeting, Hi!!!.I saw nearby ,on that side of road only I was riding .Due to dark ,I can't Recognize her clearly.
But as I came nearby her, she was the girl from Israel, with whom I met before the climb of tanglangla. She said that she will go to monastery next day & invited me to accompany her.
But I had some different plans for next day, So I told that I will confirm her by calling in night. But I forget to call & next she might had gone monastery alone, next day.
Now I reach Rigzen's uncle house. I showed them the pics & had dinner
No comments:
Post a Comment